My trip to Andamans .. A place where happiness pursues you !

My trip to Andamans .. A place where happiness pursues you !

I began packing one on 15^th Jan ( during pongal hols) For our trip to Andamans  to be on 25^th of Jan. With huge protests from all, I had to contend myself with making a detailed list of all the possible things we would be needing there.

I saw a program on National Geographic  on Jelly fish and ever since was on the alert and researched for remedies, if at all one were to be stung by a Jellyfish. In the process I learnt all about the life cycle of Jelly fish.

On 24^th – the day before departure I had packed my stuff fully and managed to convince both Jairam and Rahul to do the same. They conceded out of pity for the soul that had planned to pack 10 days ahead .

Day -1,  25^th Jan

The Kingfisher jet took off at 4 a.m. from Chennai domestic airport and we reached Port Blair promptly at 6 a.m. Needless to say, the pickup cab that was to arrive from our place of stay “ Andaman Residency” never arrived and we were promptly whisked away by a waiting tout who assured us that this hotel never sends pick-ups or drops.  While all other autos and taxis were demanding Rs. 50 to Rs. 100 from Airport to our hotel – Andaman Residency, this chap offered to drop us at just Rs. 20/-  En-route he lectured us on the prudence of utilizing his affordable services to sight-see as he was an expert guide with the “know-how” . We were bewildered when, after reaching he refused to take the Rs. 20/- immediately, but went on to display a touring sheet showing all the important sight-seeing places in and around Port Blair and finally concluded by stating the total amount of the “package –tour” as it is known. We said we would let him know later.

We had done our own research and so, settled for the Hotel of our stay to also manage our package tour. That way we would have more flexibility – time wise. This deal worked out slightly cheaper, but it had a more personal touch to it as the hotel people and the manager were friendly, cheerful people who were good guides as well.

The place where we stayed is a smallish kind of place and the room we were given was a family room with three cots in a row. The room was sparsely furnished   but with all the basics such as a split AC, TV, fridge and a huge attached bathroom. Ours was the only room on the top-most (3^rd)  floor and our room opened out to a party hall. On some evenings, there would be family gatherings or functions held in the hall, but nothing boisterous or noisy.  On our way in and out of our room, we would have to weave our way through the partying people who would look askance at us.

On the day we arrived, after the breakfast at our hotel ( the food was good), we set out sight-seeing. We went to all the local places first. It included 2-3 museums , a science centre, the Cellular jail - The cellular jail in itself was imposing with the numerous cells and the gallows that was a little way away.  We even investigated the bottom pit of the gallows. I felt a bit squeamish at going down those narrow steps at first – fearing that there would be some ghosts of all those men who were hanged to death there. But, I guess the ghosts are bugged of all those tourists trooping in and out of this place and they surely must have found “fun” places to haunt. We also visited  a local beach just 7 Kms from the main city road – called the Corbin’s Cove. This was the only beach with a long stretch of sandy shores and strong waves hitting the shores. Lots of coral and shell lay washed ashore, and Rahul and myself immediately set out picking our favourites.  It was dusk when we left and we went once again to the cellular jail to listen to the Light and sound show.  ( This show was so-so. And  by the time it ended I could hear  loud yawns all around me  and brawling kids wanting to go some place else).

That day ended with us having a nice dinner at Annapurna – a pure veg restaurant with decent food and from there straight to our hotel. Once settled we all gawked at the TV for about an hour and settled down to snore and dream.

Day 2 – Jan 6th – Republic  Day.

We were booked on a fairly largish motor boat named “Nadiya”. It had an upper deck as well – but only a roof that could be used to seat people if there was over crowding. This boat had a capacity to carry about a 100 people, but we were about 120 people in this boat.   It being republic day and with some dignitaries visiting the Island, there was a shortage of boats and also change in boarding docks. We had to wait for nearly 1 ½ hours at the jetty .  There were other similar boats docked and milling crowds tearing at each other to get in.  No body would be able to tell which boat was leaving for which Island, but still, people were boarding and alighting constantly due to this massive disorganisation. We were lucky because Mr. Shanmugam ( our Hotel manager) was able to tell us in advance that we were to board the Nadiya. There was a mad rush and a lot of clamouring to get into the boat. One would have to balance on a narrow plank to reach the boat from the dock. I managed to squeeze in and find a place for Jairam and Rahul.  It took them quite a while to board – what with the unruly crowd  - all with nasty tempers and pushing each other.

Once all were settled, ( some passengers had to go to the roof deck as there was no place at the main deck). We began our journey to Viper Island. We were given 15 minutes to see this place and get back. This is a teeny-weeny Island of a radius of about 1 km. The tsunami destruction was horrendous   here, with the landing jetty /deck totally shattered and we even saw the remains of a couple of big boats- smashed to pieces. Trees – all gone bare and the land barren. Here there is a hillock atop which is a church and also a gallows of sorts.  Rahul and I did not venture to climb up this hill. We instead went investigating this Island – around it. We came across an isolated beach with rocky ( big pebbles) beach. There were numerous coloured shiny pebbles – all smooth and rounded.  Flint stones were by far most in number. The sea water was calm and we could see a lot many fish near the shore.

The next destination was another Island called the Ross Island.  This Island is naval base and both the Indian Navy and Air-force commands operate here ( mostly to keep vigil over Indian waters). This is a larger Island with a radius of about 2.5 kms. Almost all Islands are high-rises from the sea. This one rose steeply up to a point and then fell steeply back to an opposite shore with a tiny sandy patch and mostly pebbly beach with hundreds of  coconut trees growing in total abandon . Also several trees had fallen victim to the tsunami and lay helplessly sprawled over the sea.  Two rare things about this Island – In spite of its small size, it houses at least 30 spotted deers. These deers are so used to human company that one can hand- feed them biscuits ( their favourite food). The next rare treat to the eyes are the ancient ballroom, church, office room etc. Once used by British Raj, now totally enmeshed by roots of Giant peepal trees. The brick structure of these buildings are totally invisible as they are covered  and matted by these roots.  It appears as though these trees that were witness to the gruesome acts of the Raj have held on tightly to the bygone era  to narrate their tale to the entire world.  

The final destination  of this boat was to North Bay Island. This took us nearly 40 minutes to reach from Ross. The boat stops ½ a km away from coast as the waters are very shallow. We were then herded in glass-bottomed boats ( 25 people at a time) and shunted to the Island. This Island had a somewhat long sandy beach to boast of. Since we reached there past noon, low tide had set in. On our way from the big boat to the shore,  we all could gaze down the sea bed from glass bottomed boats across shallow waters to view the live coral and colourful fish flitting about. It was a mesmerising sight. The variety , texture, colors and the vastness of the ocean – it gives us an insight into the magnitude of sea life and we begin to appreciate the glory and creativity of God. Rahul went snorkelling. He took to water like a fish. I, on the other hand did not take to water at all. The snorkelling gear felt threatening to me and when the guide instructed me to lie down flat on my stomach on the surface of the water ( with the buoy round my waist) I was terrified at the prospect and gave up. The guide was no doubt wondering what a water-hater like me was doing in the Islands ( because little did he know about my mission of collecting shells quietly on the shores.)  Even though I did not snorkel, I squatted in the water and took a good look at the bottom which was quite clearly visible. Jairam patiently waited with the bags and stuff till I got around to relieve him. He took his turn in the water. He did not go snorkelling either. We were at the beach for nearly an hour. A friendly dog kept us engaged.  He was adept at melting our hearts with his soulful eyes and we ended up buying a couple of biscuit packets and feeding it to him. He was soon joined by 2 younger pups and a female dog as well.   An incident that struck me most at this Island was – Jairam, Rahul and I went a little away to a lonely stretch of the beach and waded into the water. We discovered a huge coral – submerged in water. We were tempted to go and investigate. Suddenly from a crevice in the coral came a tiny fish ( say – as long as your middle finger and 3 fingers fat) Not threatening in the least. It was orange with black stripes – a bit like “Nemo”. This fish would swim in our direction with a fast darting motion and then pull back. If we attempted even to step a few inches closer, it would do the same. It never left the spot for nearly 15 minutes. It must have been guarding its nest. We then left as it was time to board the ship.  Like in Titanic – There was once again a mad rush to board the boats to shunt us back to the ship. I  once again managed to get a ride on the second trip and reserved places for Jairam and Rahul.

Back at Port Blair, we were picked up by Mr. Shanmugam and driven to Gandhi park. Since it was dusk, we could not see the beautiful park in its true colors. We returned soon after to have dinner and rest.

Day -3, 27^th Jan

This was the day I was looking forward to  most. It was a 29 km drive to Wandoor beach. En-route we stopped at a Government run Botanical garden. Nothing great about this place. We then drove through winding roads to Wandoor. We saw places that were permanently flooded ever since the tsunami and farm lands that were now lakes with rotting trees jutting out. The once famous route that took tourists past paddy fields, corn fields and sugarcane fields are no more. Just sea-water logged areas. In a couple of places, roads were totally ruined and bridges have been built at an elevation of about 5-6 feet to withstand any more tsunamis. We at last came to a white sand beach where  a lot of cars were parked. We had taken packed lunch, It was 11 a.m. by the time we reached this beach. We were assigned to a boatman – whom we were told would pick us up from the island beach whenever we desired to return. We boarded the speed boat. ( A four seater).  A ride that I will never forget ! It started mildly enough. Suddenly we were in the middle of the ocean and I felt these awful bumps from under the boat and with each bump all of us were thrown out of our seats – 6 inches above and bump back into your seat only to “THUD” and bump again. I though we had hit rocks and my fear was so intense that I did not even dare to yell out. I closed my eyes shut and prayed to God. I was seated at the back seat with the boat man( occupying the other back seat)– who was gunning the engine to its maximum capacity. While Rahul and Jairam had taken the two front two seats.   I so badly wanted to hold on to something that all I could grab was the back of Jairam’s shirt collar. Little did I know that I held him at a strangle hold – nearly choking him. The entire ride must have lasted 5 minutes, but the 5 longest minutes of my life. For poor Jairam who had turned ocean green due to strangulation took deep breaths to sooth his nerves. ( Who would have contemplated death at the hands of a spouse at a holiday resort in a remote Island !!). Too dramatic for one’s imagination. I felt sorry for Jairam after we got down. I promised never to strangle him from behind again. This was Wandoor- Mohuvadora Island. This was by far the most beautiful beach we had ever seen. Long long stretches of sandy beaches. The texture of the sand varied at different points of the Island. When we reached the tide was normal. There was about 20 feet of sandy beach beyond which there was a thick forest.  By the beach there were tall shady trees and shrubs, giving it a cool shade.  Rahul and Jairam changed and jumped into the water for test-swims ( like test-rides). They enjoyed the cool waters with mild waves immensely. After about an hour in water, we were all ready to go investigating the Island. We walked along the sandy beach for about 10 minutes and found ourselves a totally secluded spot under the shade of a huge tree. The sand here was smooth and fine. Jairam lay down to savour the tranquillity and peace. The sounds of the waves gently thrashing on the shores and fluttering of leaves in the gentle breeze broken only by bird twitters.  There were a couple of more families on this beach, but they were more like a bunch of show-offs ... snorkelling, thrashing in the water, trying to scare the fish - that sort of show off.   On this beach we found a friendly dog whose endearing pranks – we could not resist. She would run after us and if we waded into the water, she would swim in too.  While on the shores, she would make suggestive gestures by tilting her head to one side and WOOF at us asking us to play with her. Such a friendly dog – I’ve never met. We played a lot wit her. Then, my ”MISSION SHELL” began. I wandered about the shore for about 1.5 kms and found hidden treasure coves containing shells  and caves and also collected a great many varieties of shells. Many of the beautiful tiny shells that I would hold on my palm would suddenly start moving ! ( The creatures in them were alive and kicking), I would immediately drop them and set out to find abandoned shells.  On my way back, I even encountered a tiny sea snake that was gracefully gliding across still shallow waters.  Me, on the other hand, was taken by surprise and also fright ( even though I was about 2 feet away and the snake was actually moving in a direction away from me) I gave a quantum leap and succeeded in dislodging one of my slippers in the water that started floating in the direction of the snake and I fell with a thud on the adjoining rock – luckily not damaging the rock too badly.  I had the presence of mind to dive for my chappal. In the mean while the baby snake had totally vanished from the face of earth.  We had a peaceful picnic lunch on the beach at 1 p.m. and then took a nap under this huge tree. Rahul set about building a huge sand castle and he successfully dug out intersecting tunnels not only on all four sides but also one from top. It had a 5-way opening. The boats men would come once in a while to find out if we were interested to go in for snorkelling or on the glass bottomed boat. We refused and stayed put at our cozy patch till it was nearly 5 p.m. The boats man said high tides would begin now and it is best if we left soon.  So, ended our little sojourn at Mahuvadora beach.

On the way back to the speed boat – the friendly dog swam all the way up to the boat in nearly neck deep water to bid us goodbye. I had grossly misjudged  and underestimated the wrath and revenge the speed boats man had in store for me. This time, I only wrung Jairam’s fingers in an iron fist hold and as the boats man displayed his finesse at handling his boat as would a lion tamer in the ring – I felt more and more like a dead no, deader fish at the brink of being thrown back into the bottomless ocean. I had my eyes closed tight and little did I realise that my vice-like grip on Jairam’s arm had caused blood supply to stop and he had the realisation that strangulation would have been a better option as it would have ended it all at once, whereas paralysis would  be a worse form of punishment !  The boats man relentlessly drove at top speed where the front portion of the boat would be 60 degrees above water and the boat was riding entirely on its back ! As a grand finale, he made a “U turn”  that would put all the motorbike racers to shame. The boat literally was teetering on its side and after what felt like a life-time returned to its normal position ( which is 60 degrees nose up ).  Jairam and Rahul enjoyed this life-threatening experience  and were sorry when we landed near shore. Gods in Heaven and all 7 worlds would have heard my thanks and prayers when we landed in one piece.  My knocking knees must have started a new pattern of waves in the otherwise calm sea. I had a good mind to give a piece of my mind to the boat wala, but looking at the crestfallen faces of Rahul and Jairam (with his blue arm dangling lifelessly), I abstained.

On our way back, we stopped at a Rubber plantation and went through a tutorial of how latex is extracted,  how much a tree would yield per day etc; up to the drying process of the processed rubber mats. We saw the tiny manufacturing unit. Literally run by manpower rather than machinery. We also went round a spice garden and saw some spice trees. Did you know that if bitten by a poisonous bug or insect ( like scorpion) the latex that oozes out of the jackfruit tree was a good first aid remedy ?

Back to the hotel, bath, food, TV,sleep.

Day-4   28^{th Jan.}

10 a.m. we started for the Chaatam Saw mill. One of the biggest log saw mills in Asia. It has been in commission for more than a 100 years. We saw a museum there. Did you know that Andaman and Nicobar Islands are a cluster of about 557 Islands put-together? Of these several hundred are un-inhabited.  The mainland Andaman has forests that house wild Indian Elephants in addition to wild boars, deers and other small game.

The chaatam saw mill has its own shipping dock and the mills back side is open to sea. In the waters were immersed huge logs (for seasoning). We witnessed the entire process of how a huge log is hauled, stacked on a small rail-carriage, lifted, positioned, sawed by huge machines with really big saw blades  etc. It was really interesting to watch the coordination with which each machine is operated and the people work in synchrony.    It was 11.30 when got out of the mill and were dropped off at the Andaman Handicraft Emporium ( govt. Run). There we did a bit of shopping – but mostly sifting through the multitude of artefacts they had.    We purchased small trinkets as memorabilia. We then had lunch and by 2 p.m. at Annapurna and were ready for our trip to the Chidiya Tapu beach. The drive to this place was breathtakingly beautiful. We climbed great heights and then down what appeared like valleys. This weaving path through mountains with lush green forests on either side was out-of this world. Finally the descent towards the coast started. At the last stretch above us were layered forests with wild undergrowth and below us the undergrowth seemed to thin out and we could glimpse blue sea amidst small open patches. The mountain air was humid and the smell all around was “green-grass-with due drop”- fresh.  Mr. Shanmugam who took us in his car this time, regaled us with several anecdotes and incidents, politics, about the state of Andaman etc. Etc.. He ensured that we would return to Andaman Nicobar some other time (to see the Islands we had missed to see this time)  by his captivating narratives and descriptions. According to him, if Mahuvadora  beach was heaven to us, then the beaches of Havelock Islands and Cynque Islands and Neil Islands were 7^th Heaven.  Nothing in the world could beat these Islands in beauty..

Chidiyataapu – is basically a bay like curved Land mass ( part of mainland Andaman). We reached at very low tide time and so, we could see the seabed for as long as we waded inside. The water was still. There was a sea-weedy smell in the entire area. There was no breeze. Not even a leaf swished. This beach had a small stretch of sand. There were some people there, so we chose to move farther inward where we spotted a tiny bit of sandy patch. We walked for nearly 15 minutes on rocks and slippery pebbles and waded through still waters to reach this spot. Only when we reached did we see that the entire place was teaming with life !  The entire area was scattered with shells of all colors, shapes and sizes. All were moving ! The tiny shelled creatures all chomping about going about their business – finding food and shelter. In the stillness and slience, We could hear them rubbing shoulders against each other and moving about in their little armoured shells. Chink-chink-chink. The tiniest bit of movement from us – they appear to be highly sensitive to vibrations – sets them to en-shell themselves and stay still for some time. Then, they peep out to check if the coast is clear and then, once again chink- chink - chink - they start moving about.

I found a dead lobster of the profoundest blue- purple and green shades. Rahul was terrified of its dead body, but I was brave enough to pick it up and examine it at close quarters. It is known as the Devil Lobster. Had it been alive, India would have witnessed its next Olympic sprinter ( me! J). It is worth the mention here though, that Rahul and I won a special award... Jairam bestowed it on us jointly. Its called the “Best Shell pickers of the trip Award”.  Both Rahul and I unflinchingly faced grave dangers in trudging through the murky still waters with salamander, crabs galore and several fish( that we did not spot), in our mission to explore and collect as many shells as we could to take home. ( We found quite a few good varieties of coral too – they just wash ashore- begging to be taken home).

By 4.30, it was sunset time and Chidiya taapu which is famous for birds – which we did not find, is also famous for its sunsets. Rahul, being the good photographer that he is, clicked some very beautiful pics of the sunset.

We drove past the beautiful forests, ups and downs and reached our hotel for supper and sleep.

Day-5 , 29^th Jan, Day of departure.

The day dawned grey and bleak. It was heart wrenching to imagine having to get back to cooking each day, go shopping each day and clean and maintain the house and not even go to Marina beach or Elliots beach once a year!

After breakfast, the two lazy bones settled back in the room to watch TV and read. I took an auto to the nearby Gandhi park for a final adieu to this beautiful land. I sat on a lone park bench under a huge massive tree. The breeze was gentle. There were no other tourists except me. The gardeners were contentedly working  deftly and nimbly. I closed my eyes and savoured the oxygen in its purest form. The chirping and twittering of the birds. It was a heady feeling. I don’t know why – I felt like crying. I think I was too happy at that moment – You know like when you realise God or something. I don’t really know. But i also felt light and cheerful and teary all at the same time.   No sound of traffic. The lake by the side of Gandhi park with its rippling waters and silvery sheen in the morning sunlight and flowers of all colors in full bloom. What more can a person ask for in life ?

After an hour of this meditative silence, i went back to the hotel, from there to the Airport and back to Chennai, Back to the grind. But the happy memories still linger and will make me happy always.

If not for Jairam – Rahul and I would never have enjoyed this carefree trip. While Jairam shouldered all the responsibilities and chose to plan and lead, we enjoyed ourselves with not a worry under the sun. Because we knew Jairam would take care of EVERYTHING and he did. I am happy I married him. ( Its a shame I am telling this after 20 years of marriage !)